Your numbers
Before taxes — the figure lenders use.
Car loans, student loans, minimum card payments — not utilities or groceries.
Loan & carrying costs
The share of gross monthly income allowed for housing, and for housing plus all other debts. The classic rule is 28/36; many loans today approve up to the standard or aggressive range.
Ledger reads
Price range$0
estimated maximum home price
- Loan amount
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- Down payment share
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- Monthly budget, housing
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- — principal & interest
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- — taxes, insurance, HOA
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- Binding limit
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How lenders decide what you can afford
Two ratios do almost all the work. The front-end ratio caps your total monthly housing cost — principal, interest, taxes, insurance, and HOA — as a share of gross monthly income. The back-end ratio caps housing plus every other monthly debt. Whichever cap you hit first is your ceiling; this worksheet shows which one is binding for you.
Notice that monthly debts punch above their weight. Every $100/month of car payment or student loan doesn't just cost $100 — it removes $100 from your allowable housing payment, which at today's rates translates to roughly $15,000 of home price. Paying off a small loan before applying can move your ceiling more than months of saving.
A lender's maximum is not a recommendation. The ratios describe what you can be approved for, not what leaves room for retirement savings, childcare, or a roof that fails in year three. Many people deliberately buy one notch below their approval — run the conservative profile and see how the number changes.
Why is the down payment counted the way it is?
The ratios determine how large a loan you can carry; the down payment then adds on top of that loan to reach a price. A bigger down payment raises your maximum price dollar-for-dollar — and if it gets you to 20% down, it also removes PMI from the picture (see the PMI guide).
Does this include PMI?
No. If your down payment lands under 20% of the resulting price, expect PMI to take a further bite out of the housing budget — typically 0.3%–1.5% of the loan per year. The estimate here is slightly optimistic in that case.
What should I do with this number?
Take the resulting price to the main calculator, build the full amortization schedule, and look at the total interest line — the monthly payment is what you qualify on, but the schedule is what you actually sign up for.
This tool is for general planning purposes only and isn't financial, legal, or lending advice. Actual approval depends on credit score, loan program, and lender overlays — get pre-qualified for a real number.